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The Nile Theory

The Nile Theory

Sep 23, 2023 | Birding, Budongo Forest, Fly Fishing, Murchison Falls National Park, Nile River, Uganda

She went up the Nile as far as the first crocodile. Our intentions for exploring the Ugandan region along the mighty Nile River were perhaps a bit more ambitious than those of novelist Samuel Butler. After navigating the infamously chaotic traffic in Kampala, we made our way to the very source of the Nile. We are not sure why it took the Royal Geographic Society so many years of Victorian frustration to locate it – we found it in a morning via a pin on iOverlander. It was a grand moment to stand at the exact spot (or at least, at the monument) where John Speke first observed the true origin of the Nile more than 150 years ago where it flows out of Lake Victoria.

These days the adjacent town of Jinja is a bubbling mix of Ugandan craziness and tourist traps. We stocked up with supplies here and found a deli where you can buy South African rusks and wine (that is, if your dividends paid out this year). A highlight for us was The Rolex Joint, where we sampled the tastiest and freshest Ugandan rolexes ever. Take a chapat (pancake-like flatbread), line it with a thin omelet, add yummy fillings like bacon and fresh veggies, roll it like wrap and enjoy your rolex! We don’t know why this is not a thing elsewhere, but we will definitely be making rolexes in future.

A bit downstream, we reached The Haven. For the most part, camping in Uganda is a more spartan affair than further south. Creature comforts like electricity, functioning and hot showers, firepits, wood and washing basins are generally not part of the deal. When you arrive at The Haven, where all of these are provided along with a fantastic view over the Nile, it suddenly feels like you checked into the Ritz! Here we watched the early-morning fishermen ply their trade, adventurous (read mad) whitewater rafters take on the Grade-5 rapids and sooty Vieillot’s Black Weavers weave their nests.   

We drove further down the river to the Murchison Falls National Park. Uganda’s largest national park straddles both sides of the river and includes the world’s most powerful waterfall. Here the Nile squeezes through a gorge only 7 meters wide to create a misty spectacle and cauldron of ridiculously powerful undercurrents, reverse eddies and rapids. Thick riverine forest line the green valley below, the calls of rare Rock Pratincole flocks echo from rocky clefts and the early-morning surface of deep bays are broken by the swirls of enormous perch. Away from the river the park is equally special. We saw Ugandan kob, Jackson’s hartebeest, oribi and Northern Ground Hornbill, and hippos grazed next to our tent at night. The oil fields in the park and along the adjacent Lake Albert pose a major threat, and we can only hope that this piece of paradise will always remain protected.

The Nile perch is an amazing African predatory fish that is on the bucket list of many fly anglers, including ours – and where better to try than along the Nile. They have bass-like bucket mouths, thick dorsal fin spines, and highly reflective eyes adapted for night-time hunting. Unfortunately, they are also very tasty and can grow to massive sizes so they are under threat of overfishing throughout their range in Africa. Blank exploration sessions followed. If you thought the local mockery of a Muzungu tourist travelling in rural Africa is intense, try fly-casting a bunch of feathers tied to a hook among local hand-line and gillnet fishermen…

Each of us did manage to find a Nile perch on fly in the end. One on the upper Nile at night (trying to resist the urge to scan for crocodile eyes too often) and one at the mighty falls in the wildest, most turbulent waters we have ever come across. Neither were any record breakers, but we will always remember the excitement of finally succeeding with our quest and briefly admiring these special creatures in their beautiful but very fragile habitat.

Outside Masindi you will find the Budongo forest, where a few wild chimpanzees still remain. They are protected by the community as it is not part of a national park and we contacted a local community guide named Deo to track them (no jokes – Deo was equally surprised when he met Deo). Habitat destruction is the number one threat to chimpanzees and the fields of sugar cane we walked through next to this shrinking forest are very real examples. After a few hours searching in pouring rain and a dripping forest, we glimpsed our very first wild chimps! It was an amazing once-in-a-lifetime experience to share a few moments with these intelligent and endangered creatures. The community of adjacent farmers receive proceeds from the chimp tracking income, so there is initiative to keep protecting them.

Ancient Egyptians believed that the human body worked in a similar way to the Nile. The Nile Theory was based on how the river Nile (or humans) had many channels that can become blocked or polluted and if they do, then that part of the river would die, along with everything and everyone depending on it for generations. When the river dies, so do the people. It is our hope that the Ugandan Nile system will remain intact for generations to give life to its host of amazing creatures and landscapes, and provide adventure to those willing to explore.

Some helpful trip tips:

      • Jinja
      1. Avoid Kampala’s crazy traffic and take the Northern bypass to get to Jinja.
      2. Go see the source of the Nile and Speke monument from the Western bank of the river to avoid a costly boat trip.
      3. The very best Ugandan Rolexes can be found at The Rolex Joint in town – yum!
      4. There is a great Deli in town that has high quality meat, cheese, and even gelato ice cream if you want to spoil yourself.
      • Chimpanzees
      1. Avoid the expensive national park chimp hikes by tracking them in the Budongo forest using a community guide – much more affordable and not widely advertised.
      2. Stay at the Masindi Hotel and ask them to arrange local community chimp tracking.
      • Murchison Falls National Park
      1. The route from the South is tarred all the way and the most commonly-used. The route around the West along Lake Albert is also tarred up until the last 5km so is a good alternative.
      2. You cannot pass through the park without paying the vehicle and park fees, so time your entry and exit times and points well as UWA works on the 24-hour park principle.
      3. The most game rich area is North of the river, towards the delta.
      4. A boat or fishing trip to the falls is well worth it! 3-hour boat trips are affordable, and fishing trips less so. Wild Frontiers is the only company offering fishing trips to the falls – and their costs reflect this.
      5. If you only enter the park to fish, remember that UWA will charge you an expensive daily angling permit and park fee on top of the Wild Frontiers cost.
      6. DIY angling from the bank is still possible near the base of the falls and at the top, but the river level has risen significantly over the last 4 years, so accessibility is now very limited.
      7. Fly-fishing is best when the river is clear, with January and September being good months. It is hit-and-miss fishing in crazy turbulent water and your best bet is a 9-12 wt rod, ultra fast-sinking lines, and large GT-type or water-pushing flies.
      • Campsites
      1. Jinja: The Haven offers great views, neat ablutions, fire pits and even power points – unheard of in Uganda!
      2. Masindi: Camp at the Masindi Hotel, the oldest in Uganda with a rich history of clients and a beautiful shaded campsite.
      3. Murchison Falls: The UWA campsite on the Northern bank of the Nile is cheap, rustic and beautiful. You will likely have hippos in camp at night for company. Affordable camping options outside the park are limited – we stayed at Yebo camp.
    • Traffic police
    1. Ugandan police check points are mostly friendly and non-eventful, but be prepared for exceptions that will try and spoil your Ugandan adventure.
    2. Make sure all your paperwork is in order and never hand over an original document.
    3. Corrupt police will likely keep searching for a possible reason to ‘fine’ you, or invent a new rule of the road that you have broken if they cannot find something legitimate. Remain calm, friendly, apparently confused and very patient as this usually wears them out sooner or later. Remember, as long as they don’t have your original documents and you have done nothing wrong, you have the upper hand.

      Doing the Mburo Mabamba Mambo

      Doing the Mburo Mabamba Mambo

      Aug 22, 2023 | Birding, Lake Mburo National Park, Mabamba swamps, Uganda

      Never believe a Ugandan park official when they say all roads are passable now that it is dry season. We have come to understand that dry season in equatorial Africa means it rains only once a day. In the Mburo National Park we also found out that our Max Trax are in fact very useful and not merely aesthetic add-ons while doing the cotton soil mambo in Baloo. We have learnt many things since arriving in Uganda. We entered the country via the Mutukula border post, a busy crossing not often used by tourists but very well frequented by persistent (read irritating) fixers and some officials that unfortunately personify the corrupt stereotype. The meaning of Karen Blixen’s age-old observation becomes clear at African border posts: “It helps to be willing to waste more time over a matter than (the official) does himself, only it is a difficult thing to accomplish.”

      Heading into the town of Masaka, it immediately became clear that this is a unique country. Broad-billed Rollers (something we have only seen once in South Africa) sit on power lines like feral pigeons. A thousand boda-bodas (the ubiquitous East African motorbike taxis) weave through traffic like safari ants. Exotically noisy Plantain Eaters forage among suburban trees. We recovered from the day’s admin at Villa Katwe, a little backpacker’s lodge where Joey the buffy dog happily greets everyone, we sampled fried grasshoppers (yes, they do taste like chicken) and we had the best dinner and breakfast in a very long time.

      Travelling through the beautiful Ugandan countryside is very different to what we have experienced thus far. Between the bustling little rural towns, we passed through countless banana plantations, over green hills, and through lush green landscapes. It is very densely populated, yet the general sense of natural greenery is omnipresent. We reached lake-side Kacheera, our first campsite, after getting lost along a scenic dirt road where large-horned Ankole cattle mix with zebra and Grey Crowned Cranes. Mornings were met by a cacophonic chorus of birds. Gonoleks and Grey-crowned Warblers chatted around camp, Bare-faced Go-away Birds and Brown Babblers babbled away, and Wattle-eyes foraged carefully among the trees with their Batis-like calls.

      Lake Mburo National Park was our first nature-focused destination, and we camped at the conveniently located Leopard Camp just outside. A beautiful Savannah-type park, Mburo is home to Uganda’s only impala herds, an interesting strain that has exceptionally large horns. We also saw Rothschild’s giraffes with calves, sporting their characteristically thicker white sections between the brown blocks. The park has various beautiful marshy glades, ridges, forested lake edges and many euphorbia trees that reminded us very much of the Mokgopong area in South Africa’s Limpopo province. 

      Now about that mud. We know that black cotton soil is something to avoid. But what we did not know, is that it can be very localized and it takes very little rain to make it stick to you like a border post money changer. After our lakeside lunch got drenched by a bout of unseasonal rain, we set off on what seemed to be a well-travelled path. All was well, until it was not. We did not even notice the ever-so-slight change in mud colour, and suddenly there we were, Baloo doing a muddy wheel-spinning mambo without any trace of traction. Had it not been for our good old Max Trax sand ladders, we might well have camped there. Spending the better part of the next day washing the cotton soil out, we vowed to henceforth avoid any suspiciously black mud unless it at least cracks under foot.

      Traveling north, we crossed the equator for the first time. A momentous occasion for us dampened slightly by the rather touristy village where muzungus (i.e. white travellers) frequent expensive curios shops and locals are keen to demonstrate water flowing to a drain without swirling in any direction. A bit further on is Nkima Forest Lodge where we set up camp for a few days. Nkima is located in a patch of lush indigenous forest on an isolated hill overlooking the Mabamba swamps. Here we were awed for the first time by many of Uganda’s wonderful forest-dwelling creatures. Shy red-tailed monkeys foraged in the treetops while Giant Blue Turacos and Black-and-white Casque Hornbills raucously danced between branches. African Emerald Cuckoos woke us up every morning with their ‘Hello Georgie’ calls and we were even lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a White-spotted Flufftail darting in the undergrowth next to our campsite – in birding circles this is reason alone for a victory dance!

      The Mabamba swamp is a semi-protected wetland on the fringes of Lake Victoria, literally within sight of Entebbe Airport. Unexpectedly for its proximity to civilization, it is a birding hotspot and provides suitable habitat to many wetland species. The big-ticket bird here is the Shoebill, which simply loves the many lungfish around these swamps. We headed out in a local boat with a community bird guide who did an impressive boogie-like balancing act standing on the bow while he scanned the papyrus for signs of the elusive grey giant. After our long day searching for one in Zambia’s Bangweulu, we prepared for a similar escapade. Big was our surprise therefore when, twenty minutes in, we pulled up almost right next to a hunting Shoebill! This pre-historic looking bird gave us an unforgettable show of flying, prancing on floating reeds, intense focusing and even catching breakfast. We can only hope that this fragile habitat remains protected for these magnificent creatures to flourish.

      Near the swamp we stopped by a community project called Kasanje Cycling. Coordinated by Sam Mutton, a professional-grade cycling track was built earlier this year for local kids to use. At first glance one must do a double-take of this seemingly out-of-place sports course between banana plantations and muddy roads. But considering how widely used bicycles are every day in Uganda, it is little wonder that the course was filled with children having an absolute blast doing bike tricks when we visited. Along with a crew of UK-imported and big-hearted folks, Sam is currently busy with a beautiful play park and café next to the course and has plans to create a self-sustaining centre for the community through the medium of cycling. The project is an inspiring example of how it is indeed possible to make a sustainable difference to a community.

      As we drive further through the countless villages, we pass a ragtag school marching band raising funds next to an open-air butchery. An old man with a chicken clasped under his arm does a roadside shuffle on the band’s beat. We smile. From muddy forests and swamps with rare creatures, to communities being content with a very different standard of living from what most westerners consider normal. The dance of a happy life is not one easily learnt, but we think Ugandans might just be a few steps ahead.

      Some helpful trip tips:

      • Mutukula border post
      1. Get your East African tourist visa on Uganda’s website beforehand. It takes two days to process online: https://visas.immigration.go.ug/
      2. Be prepared for security personnel wanting to confiscate pepper spray and drones.
      3. Officials might just want ‘a little something’ after they help you. Be friendly but firm.
      • Network
      1. MTN is the best network in Uganda.
      • Lake Mburo National Park
      1. A daily permit for you and your vehicle lasts 24 hours from when you enter, so plan your visit.
      2. A foreign vehicle permit is 50-60 USD for a pick-up/bakkie. They might try to charge more for a 4×4, but it helps to argue this point if needed.
      3. There is a beautiful and cheap UWA campsite in the park near the lake.
      4. Watch out for black soil after rain!
      • Mabamba Swamp
      1. Shoebill tracking is relatively affordable here – simply arrive at the Mabamba jetty and book a local guide, or contact Shakul from https://www.mabambatours.com. 
      • Campsites
      1. Masaka: Villa Katwe provides great value for money and fantastic meals.
      2. Lake Mburo NP: Leopard Camp has a great location just outside the park.
      3. Mabamba: Nkima Forest Lodge is a friendly place in a beautiful forest.

        Tree lions and lakeshore underdogs

        Tree lions and lakeshore underdogs

        Jul 28, 2023 | Birding, Fly Fishing, Katavi National Park, Lake Tanganyika, Lake Victoria, Tanzania

        ‘I’m sure it’s fine if you get out here for a photo, we haven’t seen a sign of predators all day,’ I said confidently to Simoné. And just then, a lioness strolled out of the long grass – right on cue. But wait, there is more. About 15 more lions to be exact, some of which were up a tree, draped uncomfortably over branches like great sacks of feline awkwardness. Tree-climbing lions is a thing in East Africa, and many believe they do it attempting to escape the constant irritation of tsetse flies. Whatever the reason, it is fascinating to find these large tawny cats behaving like leopards as we are more accustomed to Southern Africa’s in-the-shade-of-acacia lions. We also did not expect to see them here, in Katavi National Park, an under-the-radar park in Western Tanzania.

        Most people picture Tanzanian parks as scenes from The Lion King – open savannahs filled with animals and hordes of tourists. Although this might not be too far from reality in the Serengeti, remember that there are also 20-odd other national parks in this beautiful game-rich country. Katavi is one of them, and only gets about 600 visitors per year due to its location well off the northern tourist trail. This relatively small park comprises a large variety of landscapes, including a beautiful river (sporting the world’s highest density of hippos!), massive game-rich plains, lush wetlands, palm-tree glades, and more. During our visit we did not see a single self-drive tourist. What we did see were 1000-strong buffalo herds, wading elephants, antheap-topping topi, Grant’s zebra (without shadow-lines between their stripes), and Thornicroft’s giraffe (with their broken-up block patterns).

        Katavi quickly became one of our favourites, not only because of the lack of tourists and tree lions, but because of its fantastic diversity and its underdog status. We camped just outside the park (hello Tanzanian park fees) at Hippo Gardens Hotel, run by Flora the very friendly manager/campfire wizard/cook. This Chernobyl-like establishment may have seen better days, but is perfectly fine for a budget night or two. Its name is also most apt, since the resident hippos visited the garden every night and giraffes greeted us in camp every morning.   

        We had entered Tanzania a few days before from Zambia at the small Mbala – Isopa border post to avoid the notorious Tunduma craziness. It was a refreshing experience to pay only for a single document (the vehicle import permit), on the back of Zambia’s convoluted system of taxing the confused traveller independently for the road, the bridge, the council, the vehicle, and possibly more if you don’t watch out. Making our way over roads that are much better than its southern neighbour (yet not tolled), we stocked up in Sumbawanga. As supermarkets disappeared from the scene, our Swahili invariably improved as shopping now gets done mostly from local street vendors. If you sniff around you will find amazing fresh produce in these village markets – a cultural culinary adventure in itself.

        When travelling up through Western Tanzania, exploring Lake Tanganyika’s shoreline is essential. At Lakeshore Lodge we camped under huge mango trees (and got visited by a boomslang in one of them), sampled our first ice-cold Kilimanjaros, caught and released some of the beautiful cichlid fish species, befriended the ever-present furry residents, and took in the amazing views over this massive lake with the DRC mountains in the backdrop. Here we also met an intrepid aviator that flew his home-built ultralight seaplane from Dar-es-Salaam to the lake, complete with manual in-flight refuelling. A Palm-nut Vulture also foraged around camp in the mornings. These vegan ‘birds of prey’ live almost exclusively from palm fruits and although rare in Southern Africa, up here in East Africa you can almost be sure to find a resident pair where there are palm trees near water.

        Located further up on the shore of Lake Tanganyika, Kigoma is a fascinating town. Here you will find the MV Liemba (the world’s oldest passenger ship with the most interesting history), the site where Stanley met up with Livingstone, and the Gombe Streams mountain forest where Jane Goodall did her groundbreaking studies on chimpanzees in the 60’s. These days, it is also the place where you are likely to get hopelessly lost looking for your campsite, where you might meet Sabastian the local camp zebra, land your first small Tanganyika perch on fly, and meet Mr. Jakobsen himself, the fascinating Norwegian expat who has been in Tanzania since 1975 and casually travelled from Cape Town (SA) to Nord Kapp (Norway) in a 2WD VW kombi in the 80’s.

        Heading towards the Ugandan border, we made our way to Bukoba, including a bone-rattling 200 km of intense road works complete with confusing village detours and sweating Chinese construction foremen. Located on Lake Victoria’s western shore, Bukoba is not exactly on the tourist trail, so a few hours of exploring dead-ends were unavoidable. These included getting lost in banana plantations, muddy alleys not meant for vehicles, and lakeshore quarries with clouds of mosquito-like lake flies so dense you must drive with wipers and fog lights.  In the end we found a hillside BnB with an amazing view and the tastiest local equivalent of vetkoek you can imagine, enabling us to relax for a day or two and hike around the increasingly lush green countryside where we added many new birds to our list.   

        The western regions of Tanzania do not get as many visitors as the coast and northern circuit. However, we found this underdog area most enjoyable and enriching. We will think of quiet shorelines of crystal-clear water where fishermen head out in their sail boats under a golden setting sun. We will taste our homemade coconut-milk curries, chapati and fresh pineapple. We will think of forgotten wilderness areas where tree lions yawn lazily to get ready for tonight’s buffalo battles. But above all, we will remember our very first taste of Tanzania, a country we cannot wait to explore further.    

        Some helpful trip tips:

        ·        Mbala-Isopa border post

        1.       Avoid Tunduma and enter Tanzania here (no trucks or runners).

        2.       Have 20-30 USD ready to exchange to Tanzanian shillings for the TIP.

        3.       Even CDP vehicles need a TIP in Tanzania.

        ·        Katavi National Park

        1.       Tanzanian parks consider your vehicle registration card to determine your vehicle entry fee based on its Tare Weight. For 2000 – 3000 kg, this means an eye-watering 150 USD per day! Budget wisely …

        2.       Get your permits for the park at the Sitalike HQ before driving to the more game-rich areas around Ikuu.

        3.       Even though park opens at 6am, the permit offices only open at 8am, and officials only arrive at 9am. Therefore, try and get your permit the day before.

        4.       Concentrate on the areas around the plains and the river, and don’t forget to look in the trees!

        ·        Network

        1.       Vodacom is the best network (1GB = 1USD).

        ·        Campsites

        1.       Lakeshore Lodge is great for its location, its cleanliness, and its privacy!

        2.       Jakobsen’s Beach is essentially the only option in Kigoma. Meet the local zebra and enjoy the private bay!

        3.       Humura Rocks has a great view over Lake Victoria and provides a fantastic breakfast!

        A Great North Road trip

        A Great North Road trip

        Jul 7, 2023 | Birding, Great north, Hiking, Lake Tanganyika, Waterfalls, Zambia

        Great North Road! This legendary road should perhaps be renamed the Not-so-great North Road considering its impressive array of potholes, death-defying truck drivers, and lurking police check/bribe points. But even so, driving up through Northern Zambia is an amazing experience if you slow down and seek out some of its many historic wonders and beautiful landmarks. After visiting Kafue, we avoided Lusaka by short-cutting through the Landless Corner road and heading North. Incidentally, this road should rather be called the Roadless Corner. Take the hint when oncoming local traffic dries up completely. 

        Some of the stops on the Great North are regular overnight places on the overlanding circuit. Fringilla Farm is one such place. With its fantastic boerewors, homemade pies, onsite butchery, and a hospitable owner that seems to buy all overnight visitors a drink on the house, this is not surprising. We had the good fortune of camping next to overlanding veterans Nelly and Julie Byrd from the popular Overlanding Africa platform. With their iconic converted British Army ambulance Defender, Henrietta, they have been on the road for 12 years (!). Talk about (as they put it) giving real life the bird.

        Travelling further, we passed and re-stocked in Kabwe, close to the old Broken Hill where Zambia’s copper riches were first discovered (accidently while hunting roan antelope) and where author Wilbur Smith was born. We stopped at Tembusha campsite, nestled in a Miombo forest a few kilometres from the main road. It contains all the campsite luxuries a weary overlander on this taxing road can wish for, even a luxury wood-fired bath – the only one we have seen so far!

        Close to Mpika you will find the Mutinondo wilderness, a must-do when in this part of Zambia to get out and explore the beautiful surrounds on foot. Surrounded by ten massive granite hills with a crystal-clear river, there are various hiking trails to explore on this piece of paradise, from day-hikes to multi-day treks to the escarpment overlooking the Luangwa valley. Walking in it was like a botanical garden visit to us – almost every plant and tree is brand new and exotic. The birdlife was fantastic as well, and there were even a few rogue lions around, although (un)luckily we didn’t find them on foot.

        Kapisha Hot Springs is another classic stopover, and again for good reason. Although anything with hot springs in the name tends to scare us away (think crowded holiday resorts with questionable pool hygiene), we found this place a welcome exception. Located on an historic estate with the famous 1920’s Africa House manor still in the family, Kapisha is nestled in a lush riverine thicket. Surrounded by tall forest trees, the spring bubbles out at a constant 40°C – enough to make you very light-headed when swimming in it as we discovered. We loved camping here next to the rushing river, where we also saw our very first Palm-nut Vulture.

        Heading further north, we had a brief interlude of mechanic-panic when Baloo somehow got a small pebble stuck inside his brake-pad housing, causing a very eerie noise indeed. One tyre change and troubleshooting exercise among eager local onlookers later, we were off again. We crossed the Chambesi river bridge, where World War I’s last shots were fired a few days after the official armistice in Europe and where the British finally called a halt to the infamous General von Lettow-Vorbeck’s cat-and-mouse campaign in East Africa. We refuelled in Kasama, following the example of the South African air force planes enroute to North Africa during World War II. 

        Of all the wonders nature has to show none, perhaps, has made greater appeal to the imagination of mankind than the grandeur and beauty of falling water. These were the words of Edward Rashleigh, who visited the world’s most spectacular waterfalls years ago. Unsurprisingly, he also paid a visit to Northern Zambia, where various rivers from all over the Zambian plateau drain into the Congo basin, forming countless waterfalls along the way. We visited the Chishimba falls and the Kalambo falls, second highest in Africa. Most of the Zambian falls are rather out of the way at the end of very rocky roads, almost guaranteeing that you will be the only visitor. At most of them you can also camp right at the waterfall’s edge, a spectacularly unique experience which we highly recommend. Here we also met the beautiful Ross’s Turaco with its bright yellow face and red crest.

        Taking the old North Road led us through Mbala (historic Abercorn) where we had to call a halt with a less-than-glamorous overnight stop, complete with soundtrack of an all-night party, ubiquitous dogs, and arbitrary Turkeys. Great was the contrast the next day when we reached the southernmost tip of the mighty Lake Tanganyika at Isanga Bay and camped right on the beach, with the gentle lapping of waves lulling us to sleep. Blissful days of kayaking and swimming in crystal-clear waters followed where the only complaint was the three-month national fishing ban on the lake which, although very good for the local fish stocks, was not conducive to our enthusiasm to catch and release some of these beautiful cichlid species.

        Tomorrow this road will take us further and into Tanzania, but for now we reflect on the Zambian route of the last week or two. Mr Rhodes’ ideal of a non-stop railway and modern road connecting the Cape to Cairo may not have worked out exactly as he planned. The Africa of steam trains and night-time drums may have gone. But the Africa of lonely places remains unchanged in some way. If you do a little bit of homework, dusty modern towns may just come to life and natural marvels will leave you in wonder. Take the road less travelled, take a Great North Road trip!   

        Some helpful trip tips:

        • Great North Road:
          1. Snail’s pace is your friend (50 kph is safe, even should a Defender overtake you!)
          2. Never give original documents or passports (including road tax certificates) to policemen.
          3. A left indicator from the vehicle in front of you means it is ‘safe’ to overtake.
        • Zambian fuel: Total and Puma are most reliable for clean diesel – avoid the many other stations if possible. Although a few places now have 50 ppm, the most common ‘low sulphur diesel’ is 500 ppm.
        • Language: You will be amazed how people warm to you when you greet them in their own language. Zambia has 73 (!) languages, but Bemba is one of the most common. Here are some phonetic pointers:
          1. Hello = Mashibuweni!
          2. How are you? = Mudishani?
          3. Well thanks! = Gweno!
          4. Thank you very much! = Natotella sana!
        • Campsites: We enjoyed these spots along the GNR:
          1. Lusaka – Kabwe: Fringilla farm (stock up on their boerewors and pies or camp here)
          2. Mkushi – Serenje: Tembusha bush camp (private campsites with baths!)
          3. Serenje – Mpika: Mutinondo Wilderness
          4. Mpika – Kasama: Kapisha Hot Springs
          5. Kasama – Mbala: Chishimba Falls campsite (entrance fee includes camping)
          6. Lake Tanganyika: Isanga Bay Lodge & Kalambo Falls campsite

        On the trail of Giants

        On the trail of Giants

        Jun 27, 2023 | Bangweulu, Birding, Kasanka National Park, Overlanding, Zambia

        It is interesting to walk shin-deep through a marsh at night while carrying a stranded mokoro canoe. The clinking of a thousand reed frogs in stereo, the occasional splashing of an unseen herd of lechwe nearby, and the vast moonlit plain around you is magical. Then you remember how far you are from anything, the millions of mosquitos buzzing around you, and the fact that you are sloshing through croc and hippo country at night with no torch. So, interesting is one word. Stupid also springs to mind. We had been tracking shoebills in the Bangweulu wetlands all day, and we only found one very late in the afternoon. Our guide simply would not turn around without finding one, with the end-result being a very late return to camp. Anyone who considers a long-haul flight an arse-cramping affair has never spent 10 hours in a mokoro.

        The enigmatic shoebill is often described as a living dinosaur. Given its huge size, rare status and the fact that it has Rex in its scientific name, it makes sense. The Bangweulu swamps is the southernmost point of its distribution and many birders venture here to trek after this bird – likely one of the most coveted lifers in all of Africa. They are secretive and shy birds and live only in very specific marshy wetlands. Since shoebills only begin building nests in June, their movements and locations are more unpredictable this time of year and they can be anywhere in a very big swamp.

        Bangweulu is a community reserve where local fishermen still ply their trade and the shoebills’ conservation is managed by African Parks. They have very interesting initiatives. One is hand-raising rejected shoebill chicks using special shoebill puppets (made by Jim Henson’s from Muppets Tonight), as chicks get attached to the first thing they see. Another is to assign local fishermen to specific shoebill nests as guardians to ensure the community’s involvement and direct benefit from conservation.

        They say it is about the journey to the bird that makes it worthwhile, and our day was no different. We saw a plethora of amazing creatures in the wetlands including the very localised Katanka masked weaver, blue-collared bee-eaters, swamp flycatchers, and over a thousand African openbills heading home to roost in the late afternoon. When we eventually found a shoebill, it was a surreal moment. After all the crazy effort to find it, suddenly, there it was. Almost pretending as if it was not critically endangered. A rare adventure that more people should embark on to ensure the survival of these mysterious giants.

        The Bangweulu wetlands and marshes are not only home to shoebills, it is probably the only place in the world where you will see the black lechwe, of which an amazing 40 000 can be seen on the open marshy plains! We knew about the lechwe coming here, but we did not expect a cheetah walking straight past our tent one morning while we were having our coffee! Two were introduced three years ago and they seem to thrive within the reserve. We were very lucky indeed to encounter one in camp.

        While on the way to Bangweulu the day before, we simply could not pass by Kasanka National Park. Although a relatively small reserve, it has beautiful wetlands and as it is situated close to the DRC border, it hosts a mixture of very interesting species. We had a Sitatunga ram right by our campsite, and saw fascinating species like the Gambian sun squirrel and the kinda yellow baboon (yes, it’s kinda yellow but that is also its real name!). We also found two breeding pairs of special racket-tailed rollers displaying, rolling from side to side after ascending vertically. Kasanka is most famous for the largest mammal migration in the world when millions of fruit bats arrive during October each year – we will therefore need to be back to witness this natural spectacle.

        But there was also another giant to visit before the shoebills. Not too far from Kasanka, right at the end of a pretty rough dirt road (proudly Zambian), you will find Chitambo’s old village. And outside the village, you will find the site where famous explorer and missionary David Livingstone passed away before his body was carried back to London by his two loyal servants. Although the tree marking the location now stands in the British Museum and he is buried in Westminster Abbey, his heart is fittingly still buried here. Livingstone was many things, some good and some bad, and he saw an Africa that will never be again – just before the scramble began. But above all he was a wanderer, a wonderer, and someone with a passion for the continent and for his faith. Visiting the serene place where he died while on his knees in prayer was special. As the African proverb goes – seeing is different to being told.

        From endemic antelopes filling the plains as far as the eye can see to a surprising predator visit. From a giant amongst adventurers to a giant special bird. Bangweulu is a place full of specialities and wonders that need to be seeked, and whether you find them or not, you may well and simply find it a rare privilege to be in this Africa.

        “People talk of the sacrifice I have made in spending so much of my life in Africa. It is emphatically no sacrifice. Say rather it is a privilege” – David Livingstone

        Some helpful trip tips:

        • Kasanka National Park (Pontoon campsite 2):
          1. Most roads are still closed in May, but campsites are accessible
          2. Peak time is in October/November during the bat migration
        • Livingstone memorial site: Beautiful site to camp, but expensive – recommend only to visit
        • Bangweulu wetlands (Nsobe campsite):
          1. Enquire with Shoebill Island (luxury lodge) if roads are dry – this is a notorious place to get stuck in wet cotton soil!
          2. Enjoy the drive in (right through the villages) and don’t miss the turn-off to Nsobe. Demonstrating a 13-point u-turn to an entire village is awkward.
          3. Take enough water when going shoebill tracking.
        • Lavushi Manda National Park:
          1. No park fees apply when traversing it to access Bangweulu.
          2. Park campsites no longer seem operational and access roads are completely overgrown.