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Of ferries, elephants, and potholes

Of ferries, elephants, and potholes

May 6, 2026 | Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe

From the moment we bumped and lurched our way along the lunar surface of potholes from Hwange towards the shores of Lake Kariba, the sweet promise of adventure was in the air. The road insisted we suffer a bit—and suffer we did, willingly—because according to the unwritten safari rule it’s often the painful approach that leads to the amazing reveal. And when we finally arrived, Lake Kariba more than delivered.

Set in a small conservancy alongside a quiet private bay on the shores of Lake Kariba, Maabwe Bay seems to have it all. A relaxed atmosphere, beautiful views over the bay, a complementary campsite fish eagle, and excellent facilities. The silence was a kind of luxury: no throngs of tourists, just the soothing lap of water, the distant croak of hippos and the occasional trumpet of an elephant arriving at the water’s edge.

Owner Margot is hospitality personified and offered us fresh fillets of locally-caught Niloticus Tilapia which was, quiet simply, the best freshwater fish we’d ever tasted. Margot and her late husband did an amazing job of setting up this beautiful camp, and she runs a tight ship amidst the plethora of challenges in these parts.

After a few days of ‘seaside’ bliss, we trundled to nearby Mlibizi to catch the weekly ferry across the length of Lake Kariba. Permission to board, Captain! Operated by Kariba Ferries, the stately vessel MV Sealion has become somewhat of an institution. Having operated on and off since 1973, it is a purpose-built ferry to link overlanders and their vehicles from one shore of Lake Kariba to the other.

This is no ordinary ferry hop – it is a good 22 hours, or with head winds, more like 26. Boarding and parking (read cramming) Baloo into the hold with all the other vehicles cost us a few grey hairs, but we emerged (via our back window) unscathed. The trip was great – beautiful views of the surrounding landscapes, meeting new friends onboard, shoreline game watching, and meals not unlike a Sunday roast at your mother’s home!

All in all, the ferry is not cheap (as with most things in Zim), but offers a good alternative to the rough road connecting Vic Falls to Mana Pools and provided us with a great adventure across the full length of the largest man-made reservoir in the world by volume.

Arriving in Kariba town, we found it a bit like a seaside village with elephants. We stocked up at the quaint Ellie Deli, checked out the massive dam wall and hydroelectric scheme and drove up to Kariba Heights. We visited the Santa Barbara church, built in honour of the Italian and African workers who died during the dam’s construction of the memorial. We also visited the small hospital where Deo’s dad worked in the 1970s when their new x-ray machine was the only one in the whole region.

Next to it is a memorial to Operation Noah, the massive wildlife rescue effort that took place in the 1960s to save animals from the rising waters of the newly formed lake. The weight of the place sank in: this lake is playful, shimmering, full of life, but also a product of huge change. The tribes living in the valley were relocated, islands emerged, forests flooded, and animals were rescued.

We stayed in Warthogs Camp catching up on work, waking up to elephants moving through camp, and fighting off millions of mozzies (yes, they can and will fit through a 1cm hole in the tent). The grass between the mopanis were lush and green, and we half-expected a warthog to wander in and ask “is this the place for the buffet?”. But instead we just sat, cold Zambezi in hand (camping rule 47: always sample the local beer even if it is not that good) and watched the horizon colour-shift as the evening deepened.

We totally understand why Kariba is many Zimbabweans’ equivalent of a favourite seaside breakaway town. The ever-changing border between land and water, the islands scattered like forgotten stepping-stones, the mountains beyond – all blended into a memory we will not forget. If you’re after a safari with a twist, a place where the endless water meets wild Africa and adventure is the daily norm, go to Lake Kariba.

Trip tips:

  1. The ferry across Lake Kariba is an interesting and unique adventure. Book it through their website (https://www.karibaferries.com/) but be mindful of getting your vehicle height correct to avoid them wanting to take your rooftop tent off on arrival! It travels between Mlibizi and Kariba town weekly.
  1. We enjoyed the following campsites along the lake’s edge:
  1. There is reliable fuel in Kariba, but not in Mlibizi. In Kariba, spoil yourself with quality foods at The Ellie Deli.
  2. If you have enough time and it is dry season, consider travelling by road from Mlibizi to Kariba. Be warned that this road is very bad and seasonal, so plan it over a few days. This route will take you to fantastic gems like Chizarira National Park and Matusadona National Park, both absolutely worthwhile visiting!
Hwonderful Hwange

Hwonderful Hwange

Mar 1, 2026 | Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Having only visited Victoria Falls before, we couldn’t wait to explore Zimbabwe more thoroughly and finally got a chance to do so this year. An untimely bout of flu delayed us for a few days in Pandamatenga. But, high on Corenza and Andolex, we finally rolled into Zimbabwe via the sleepy border post (literally, the customs officer was snoozing in his hut), leaving behind the tourist bustle and slipping into a quieter, wild zone.

Our first target was Hwange National Park. The road into Hwange threaded through the Matetsi Safari Area, a former hunting concession that gave an early hint of what was to come. Mid-afternoon, without any fanfare or warning, a leopard bolted across the public road in front of us. One moment we were chatting about pizza (yes—we had sampled the “Sugarbird” at Panda Lodge), the next we froze as the spotted cat melted into the bushes. That instantaneous shift from “holiday chatter” to “we’re in wild country now” was thrilling.

Our first campsite was at Mandavu Dam, and it felt like we’d discovered a secret: we had the site to ourselves. A friendly attendant greeted us with a wheelbarrow full of mopane wood—perfect for the campfire. As the sun dipped and shadows longed into the bush, the ambient soundtrack launched: hippos grunting in the water and elephants lumbering nearby. The fire crackled and our shoes were dusty. It was bush-camping at its purest.

In the Sinamatella area, dry and recently burnt, the burnt patches of bush added a dramatic stroke to the landscape. The blackened earth contrasted vividly with green shoots, grazing animals, and the ash-grey trunks of trees. There, at almost every waterhole we visited, elephants gathered. Sometimes 20, sometimes 50 or more. Indeed, Hwange has one of the highest ellie populations in Africa.

Dry, open mopane woodland, dusty roads, grassy glades dotted with camelthorn trees—Hwange’s terrain is deceptively simple but layered with mood. According to conservation sources, Hwange spans around 14,651 km². What that means is that there is plenty of space for animals to roam, and for you to feel small in a grand natural theatre. There is also generally less tourists than in more popular parks, making it our favourite type of reserve.

The dry season (which we were in) has its own magic—water is scarce, so when a dam or pan becomes active, it’s like a wildlife magnet. We spotted roan and sable antelope that felt like rare cameo appearances, roaming in the grasslands with a casual elegance. Knowing that Hwange is one of the few places in southern Africa where sable and roan are still seen regularly made the moments feel even more special.

Some parts of Hwange aren’t groomed for luxury smoothness. The road from Robin’s to Main Camp was ex-tarred, bumpy, and made Baloo bounce like popcorn. But those bumps came with rewards: game-rich areas around Ngweshla, glades dotted with giant camelthorn trees, and the feeling of being deeper in the wild. You grit your teeth over potholes and then you gasp at the scene—a sable antelope framed by the rising sun, elephants silhouetted in a misty waterhole.

Before moving on we camped at Gwango Heritage Resort just outside Main Camp. A smarter site, cold beer in hand, sunrise picture-perfect with Ground Hornbills booming in the morning air. It felt like the bush cleared its throat, stretched, and invited us to stay longer.

As we packed up and left towards Kariba, we realised we were leaving more than a park, we were leaving a mood, a wild chapter. In the vehicle, I turned to Simoné and said, “We’ll be back.” Because you don’t just visit Hwonderful Hwange. You wander inside it, you get gently wild-smitten, and you promise yourself one more night of mopane wood fires under the African sky.

Trip tips:

 

  • For a quick and quiet entry to Zimbabwe from Botswana, use the Pandamatenga border post.
  • Cash is king in Zimbabwe! US Dollars can be withdrawn from ATMs in major cities, but we suggest taking at least a few fuel tanks’ worth before you go!
  • Fuel is readily available in Zimbabwe although expensive. Most Total and Puma stations accept VISA cards, but don’t bargain on it too much.
  • We did not book for Hwange, but it can be done if you have a bit of patience and a sense of humour via reservations@zimparks.org.zw.
  • Two great campsites just outside the park’s borders that we can recommend are Gwango (https://gwango.com/) and The Siding (https://www.thebayetecollection.com/the-siding/).
  • The picnic site and platform campsites in Hwange are expensive but unique. They are worth it if you are keen for an amazing wilderness experience. Our favourites are Ngweshla, Makwa, Deteema, and Mandavu Dam.
    Mountains, Forests, Coastlines & Cliffs

    Mountains, Forests, Coastlines & Cliffs

    Nov 28, 2025 | Cederberg, Garden Route, Golden Gate, South Africa, Western Cape, Wild Coast

    After we have been travelling throughout Southern and East Africa over the last few years, and with so many world-famous destinations in our own beautiful South Africa, we decided it is about time again to explore some of our favourite places on home soil while also discovering more off-the-radar ones. And what better way than taking a slow overland road trip from the Western Cape all along the coastline to the Eastern Cape’s Wild Coast and into the Eastern Free State.

    After ending our Namaqualand trip on the West Coast, our first stop was one of our favourite and most unique wildernesses in South Africa – the Cederberg mountains. After entering the Cederberg Conservancy from the Niewoudt’s Pass, we immediately swapped Baloo’s tekkies for our own hiking boots and took to some of the many hiking trails for which these mountains are so magical. We enjoyed the variety of fynbos and proteas, the endless vistas of the valley below, the various mountain streams and pools and even found some Cape leopard tracks. The Cape Leopard Trust does a lot of research and awareness work to conserve the endangered cape leopards that live in these mountains. They are the same as other leopards, but quite a bit smaller, and even more shy and elusive!

    On one of our hikes we explored the Wolfberg Cracks, where weathered sandstone walls rise up to 100 meters. En route we had a look at beautiful San Rock Art showing a series of small thumb prints thousands of years old – something rarely seen in Southern African cave paintings. Back at our campsite next to the Matjiesriver one of the Cape’s infamous cold fronts settled in, bringing with it snow to the surrounding mountain tops – an unusual sight for bush junkies like us.

    After escaping the snow we explored the nearby West Coast Fossil Park and learnt the fascinating story of how high concentrations of truly unique fossils were discovered in this West Coast area in the 1950’s. Our beloved cruiser Baloo has always been proudly known as the only bear you will find in Africa. But, it turns out Africa actually had pre-historic bears looong ago, and their fossil remains can be seen just outside Langebaan. Short-necked giraffes, sabre-toothed cats, prehistoric hyenas, bears, and a whole lot more – their remains are all on display in a beautiful and modern building and educational display that pieces together the wonders of the past.

    From here we headed through the Overberg region towards Cape Agulhas. We stopped first at Danger Point’s lighthouse where the HMS Birkenhead sank in 1845 and where the soldiers famously stood in formation as they went down with the ship to allow lifeboats to be launched safely, the first example in history of the “women and children first” protocol.

    Not far away we reached a highlight for both us and Baloo – Africa’s southernmost tip, where it was both humbling and fun to retrace and point out some of the many places we’ve been privileged to explore on this amazing continent over the last few years.

    Literally meaning Cape of Needles after the old Portuguese navigators noticed that magnetic north coincided with true north just off this coast, Cape Agulhas is as far South as you can go on this beautiful continent. It is also the traditional dividing line between the warmer Indian Ocean and colder Atlantic Ocean.

    Next up was the Agulhas National Park. They don’t offer camping, so we stayed in a surprisingly well-priced seafront cottage, and what a treat this was. Beautiful views of the unspoilt coastline, birds like the Bokmakierie calling from the fynbos around you, and a cozy fireplace on a cold windy night. A great network of hiking trails lets you explore the area, its endemic fynbos species, its beautiful rocky coastline and its prolific birdlife. What is really cool is that the majority of this park is wilderness area and not open to the public or to tourism – there are not many wild places left like that.

    We made our way further along the coast to the De Hoop Nature Reserve. A UNESCO world heritage site, it features amazing wetlands, lowland fynbos, and a shoreline with a Marine Protected Area known for its whale sightings and biodiversity.

    We camped among the milkwood trees, braaied locally caught crayfish on the coals, and amongst others, were treated to the largest herd of eland we have ever seen. De Hoop truly lived up to its name of providing hope in conservation, and it will definitely see us again!

    Next up was the only South African National Park we had not yet visited – the Bontebok National Park. We shared our campsite with a very friendly local tortoise apparently employed by the park to keep the lawn in shape. We thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful renosterveld biome and lush location of the park next to the Breede river.

    Not far away, you will find the Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve, in the largest remaining indigenous forest of the Langeberg mountains. The Western Cape is truly spoiled for choice when it comes to amazing little nature reserves – and Grootvadersbosch is no exception! We explored its great network of forest hiking trails, enjoying not only the forest itself but also hearing and seeing its amazing birdlife. Incidentally, it was also here where the humble Bushbuck was first officially recorded as a species in 1776!

    We travelled all along the beautiful garden route to the De Vasselot campsite just outside Nature’s Valley, a part of the Garden Route National Park. Here we enjoyed camping in the forest, the quiet tidal river, and hiking among the magnificent indigenous Outeniqua yellowwood trees.

    Not far away is the Storms River mouth in the Tsitsikamma section of the park. For some the word conjures up memories of hiking the famous Otter trail, for others the beautiful indigenous forests, and for some it is just a difficult word to pronounce! In fact, it means place of abundant or sparkling water, and this is most certainly a good description of the area, as a hike along the famously spectacular suspension bridges proved. Camping right on the edge of the ocean, we enjoyed the fresh sea breeze and view, caught up on some Cricket World Cup games and marvelled at the massive schools of dolphins in the area.

    Exploring the coastline further, we headed into the Eastern Cape and the tiny hamlet of Bathurst. This region started cultivating pineapples in 1865 already, and is still a large role-player in the commercial industry of pineapples in South Africa today. We sampled the delicious home-made ice-cream and amazing book collections of Bathurst, and of course, climbed to the top of their famous Big Pineapple.

    From here, the road took us further into the Eastern Cape and into the beautiful Wild Coast. The usually-amazing fishing was on the quiet side due to recent flooding, but the amazing area more than made up for it with its spectacular surroundings, pristine beaches and estuaries, and the richness of marine life. On the Wild Coast, time moves at the speed of a lazy cow on the beach —which is fitting, because you’ll meet plenty of them.

    From the wild coast we turned inland again, driving up through the beautiful north-eastern cape to camp along the gin clear Karnmelkspruit and its surrounding sandstone cliffs near Lady Grey. Of course, we just had to cast a fly or two and tussle with some of the beautiful wild spawned trout that call these waters home.

    Meandering all along the border of Lesotho, we entered into the beautiful Eastern Free State and into the Golden Gate Highlands National Park. Here the quiet, crisp mountain air is punctuated only by the sound of black wildebeest territorial bulls off in the distance. Wind ripples over the grasslands and multiple mountain ranges loom off in the distance. For a treat we stayed at the mountain retreat high up in the mountains where each cabin is uniquely designed to blend into the landscape and offers you the most amazing view and experience!

    As we reflect over the last few weeks, we realise this overland trip became more than just an epic journey. From rugged mountains to ancient forests, from bountiful oceans to majestic highlands, every kilometre offered a new wonder to explore. It was a reminder of how wildly diverse and generous South Africa’s landscapes can be, and that amazing adventure awaits anyone who is willing to seek out its wonders.

    Trip tips:

    We really enjoyed camping and visiting the below places along our journey. Booking is advised in South African holiday seasons (and you might want to avoid the coastline in December if you don’t like crowds!).

     

    1. Cederberg
    1. Cape Agulhas
    1. De Hoop Nature Reserve
    1. Bontebok National Park
    1. Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve (https://www.capenature.co.za)
    2. Nature’s Valley
    1. Tsitsikamma
    1. Wild Coast
    1. Golden Gate Highlands National Park

    The Kingdom of Canyons

    The Kingdom of Canyons

    Nov 10, 2025 | Birding, Eswatini

    Eswatini is one of those destinations that seem to often be overlooked by overland travellers and South African holidaymakers alike, for no good reason. We decided it’s time to find out more for ourselves and after meandering through the beautiful mountainous countryside around the town of Barberton, we entered Eswatini at the quiet Josefsdal border post.

    For the second smallest nation in Africa, Eswatini has quite a few fascinating facts. It is Africa’s last remaining absolute monarchy, has the world’s oldest recognised mining works, the world’s second largest monolith rock, and one of its previous kings, King Sobhuza II, reigned for 82 years – longer than any other monarch in the world!

    Our first stop was the enchanting Phophonyane Falls Eco Lodge. In the lush forested valleys we hiked some of the many trails and enjoyed the beautiful views over the river below and the series of cascading falls. At Phophonyane there is also no lack of spoils and luxuries, with amazing food and drinks pairing well with the large tropical gardens.

    We drove down the escarpment to the low-lying eastern areas of the country, stopping at the Hlane Royal National Park, the crown jewel of reserves in Eswatini. Here we enjoyed game driving and the excellent birding. Eswatini is a birding paradise where many species found further north in the bushveld overlap with those found further south in KwaZulu Natal. Interestingly, the southernmost communal breeding site of Marabou storks in Africa can be found here.  One of Hlane’s main drawcards is the popular waterhole at the main camp where we spent many hours just relaxing and watching hippos and rhinos.

    Our last stop was the private game reserve of Mbuluzi, only a short drive from Hlane. Tucked into the northeastern corner of the country, the conservancy sits at the point where the Lebombo mountains rise, with the Mbuluzi river flowing in the valley below and lowveld savannah along its banks. It is therefore very biodiverse. Low impact tourism means that the wilderness experience is fantastic, and their conservation efforts in terms of research and reserve management are encouraging to see.

    We loved hiking and birding on the reserve, visiting the hides at various dams, seeing plains game, and of course spending much time exploring the beautiful river valley as well. The campsite is private, and while relaxing under the beautiful Natal Mahogony trees and listening to the soft murmur of the river and crickets nearby we agreed that so far it was certainly one of our favourite campsite locations in all of Africa. 

    We were excited to add Eswatini to Baloo’s own hall of fame. With its good infrastructure, beautiful landscapes, great birding and diverse range of adventures to be had it certainly deserves to be much higher up on the list of places to experience, and we will definitely be back to this Kingdom of Canyons soon.

    Trip tips:

    Eswatini is small but has amazing destinations for adventurers! We did a route from the west to the northeast and enjoyed the following places: 

    • Hlane’s main drawcard is the great waterhole and main campsite, whereas the amazing private campsite, wilderness and hiking opportunities at Mbuluzi will keep us going back!
    • There are various border posts between Eswatini and South Africa, and we recommend the smaller quiet ones – you will likely be the only ones there!
    Zambian Wild(erness) Connections

    Zambian Wild(erness) Connections

    Mar 29, 2025 | South Luangwa National Park, Zambezi River

    Many of our friends and family have emigrated to Europe over the past few years. When asked when are we to follow suit, one of our favourite replies is that you cannot dream about ever leaving Africa once you have looked into the eyes of a wild leopard or felt a tigerfish at the end of your line. Quite a convoluted way to say we are staying! We were recently back in Zambia, travelling from East to West. And this time we were in search of these two exact experiences – and more! This is what we found.

    South Luangwa National Park is sometimes referred to as Zambia’s answer to the Kruger Park. However, it is the park’s other nickname that caught our attention: The Valley of the Leopards. We entered Zambia from Malawi using the Chipata border post – one of those brand new shiny one-stop border posts where the term ‘one-stop’ is misleading in that it implies an efficient process. Be that as it may, our mood certainly lifted as we set up camp at Wildlife Camp on the banks of the Luangwa River and cracked open a dripping Mosi Lager.

    Camping tramps like us cannot set up their tents inside South Luangwa, so most campsites are located across the river. Luckily there are no fences around, so the wilderness experience isn’t diminished at all. We watched in silent awe as an elephant breeding herd waded through the river at sunset, painting a real-life African motif on the canvas of rippling gold. After polishing enamel plates full of fireside potjiekos, we fell asleep to the referee-whistle calls of African Scops Owlets welcoming us back to Mopani bushveld at its finest.

    Entering the park and driving its many tracks along the river reminded us a lot of the roads back home in northern Kruger. Imposing jackal berry, leadwood and ebony trees dwarfed us with their beautiful canopies while puku, impala and elephants grazed peacefully through the dappled shadows. The pools were rimmed with hippos feeling the pressure of late dry season, and flocks of breeding Southern Carmine Bee-eaters performed their pink aerobatics foraging for insects. We even chanced upon two male lions and a pack of wild dogs, our first in many months.

    And then, early one morning while slowly driving through the riverine landscape, our eyes met those of a young leopard. It was clear that his mom was still out hunting and ordered him to ‘stay’ as he sat fiddling next to the road. Obeying your mom’s orders is hard to do when you are curious about the world around you, and he proceeded to stalk and pounce the nearby elephant dung instead. We sat with him for what felt like ages (by leopard sighting standards anyway) until the lodge game viewers arrived. Little did we know the drama we were about to witness around the next corner.

    A little further on we found mom leopard sleeping off the night’s hunt in a tree. Suddenly, her intense focus and twitching tail tip indicated that something was up. And that something was a large troop of yellow baboons foraging close by. One of the wily old males spotted our leopard and duly raised the hue and cry. Contrary to expectation, the whole troop responded by clambering up the tree and closing in on her, a proper mob in action! She was not impressed and moved up higher, snarling, growling and generally spitting fire. The war between Luangwa’s leopards and baboons is well documented, with the cats ruling the night and the tables being turned in daytime. It was fascinating to see this battle of survival play out first-hand, just as it has been doing in the valley of leopards for ages.

    After our time (read: our budget) in Luangwa came to an end, we headed west through the beautiful Zambian countryside. In Lusaka we spent a few days catching up on work and all the real-world admin that piles up while we live for the moment out in the wilderness. With the wolves at bay, we proceeded via Livingstone to the upper Zambezi river and set up camp on its banks. With the campfire going, we strung up the fly rods and tied a few rough-and-ready tiger flies as the sun was setting over our favourite river. Wilbur Smith was spot-on when he wrote that the man who drinks the Zambezi’s water must always return to drink some more again.

    We spent two days exploring the river by boat and casting our feathered imitations at the striped bullies of the Zambezi. We saw flocks of rare Rock Pratincoles, various Egrets, and Fish Eagles by the dozen. Unlike further down, this section of the majestic river is characterised by various rocky islands, rapids and the impressive Sioma falls. It is also well known for its beefy tigerish that seem to spend more time in the gym here than elsewhere. And it was exactly one of these I connected with while swinging a fly through the current in one of the deep dark holes. Some tigers nibble at your fly, others hit suddenly and ferociously, but this one simply grabbed and took off like a one-way train that did not know it was hooked. No questions were asked nor quarters given, and about 30 seconds later it was all over, with me looking at a bent-open hook – and for those that care it was a B10S 2/0.. As consolation we both landed a few tigers later, fishing from rocky ledges on foot and casting at the peripheries of agitated hippo pods, activities that are not typically supported by travel insurance policies.  

    Once settled back at camp we made a fresh pot-bread on the coals, had an outside shower in flip-flops and listened to the din of summertime cicadas. We thought of the day’s battles won and lost and of our experiences in wild and wonderful Zambia over last few weeks. The river elephants, Bee-eaters, puku, wild dogs, sunsets, and endless bush roads. And of course, leopards and tigerish – the cherries on the cake. Such experiences connect you to primordial wild(er)ness, to the very pulse of a continent, and to your own role in it at a level deeper than most people might realise, and that is why we will always return.

    Trip tips:

    • The most popular and accessible area of South Luangwa is around Ngoma Bridge. We enjoyed driving the riverside roads in both directions from the gate. The nearby Nsefu sector is quieter and if you have time also worth a visit. Park fees can be paid by card at the gates.
    • A night drive might be more worthwhile in South Luangwa than in some other parks due to the high leopard density and relatively open landscape. We joined one from our camp and saw the same leopard mom and cub from earlier hunting a scrub hare – worthwhile indeed!
    • When entering Zambia remember to ask for ALL ROADS on your road tax certificate to avoid issues when stopped at a road block.
    • Campsites we enjoyed:

                – Wildlife Camp (South Luangwa): https://wildlifezambia.com/

                – Bridge Camp (enroute to Lusaka)

                – Lukasa (Lusaka): https://www.lukasa.info/

                – Kabula Lodge (Zambezi river): https://www.kabulalodge.com/