Between ruins and reflections

Between ruins and reflections

We lay awake in the rooftop tent, listening to the thunder rolling across the granite kopjes. The wind bellowed and tugged forcefully on Baloo’s sides as the raindrops started to fall. The summer rains had come early and the storm meant there would be little sleep tonight. Our last few days overlanding through Zimbabwe had been a fascinating blend of mystery and beauty.

We had set off early from our previous campsite, mist still clinging lazily to the valley. The Great Zimbabwe ruins lie near the modern town of Masvingo. A jumble of towering stone walls rising from the hills, built entirely without mortar, yet standing proud for more than 700 years.

Great Zimbabwe was once the capital of a powerful kingdom that ruled vast parts of Southern Africa from the 13th to the 15th centuries. It’s the largest ancient stone structure in sub-Saharan Africa and, as we soon learned, one of the most mysterious. Who built it, and why? The debates rage on, but standing there among the massive walls of the Great Enclosure, the Hill Complex, and the Valley Ruins, we simply enjoyed and appreciated the beautiful construction for its own sake. To us they seemed to capture the essence of wonder – greatly admirable yet not completely explainable.

We spent hours wandering through the site, ducking through narrow stone passageways, and climbing to high vantage points where the breeze carried echoes of ancient life: market chatter, the clang of metalworkers, maybe even royal laughter. The Great Enclosure’s curved walls rise more than ten meters high and seem to ripple like stone waves. Inside it stands the famous Conical Tower – no doors, no windows, no clear purpose – like a riddle carved in granite. And then there are the soapstone birds (Zimbabwe’s national emblem) found in the small museum onsite. Smooth and serene, they gaze out as if remembering an age of kings and traders.

After a morning lost in the past, we returned to the present with a lakeside drive back to our campsite at Romelda on the shores of Lake Mutirikwi (previously Lake Kyle). Created by damming the Mutirikwi River in the 1960s, Lake Mutirikwi stretches serenely beneath the nearby hills, fringed by mopane and miombo woodland. It’s hard to imagine a more serene spot for a picnic or a peaceful afternoon nap. At least it was, until a pack of SA-bound Bush Lapas pulled a laager next to us and lit what looked like a signal fire.

From the calm of Lake Kyle, we turned westward toward Matobo National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Zimbabwe’s crown jewels. This small national park packs a great punch, being in a scenically spectacular area of countless granite kopjes and wooded valleys. We camped at the beautiful Farmhouse’s campsite, with its amazing world’s view vistas.

We explored the park and enjoyed not only its great fauna such as the many Verreaux’s eagles and renowned rhino population, but also the many bushmen cave painting sites dotted throughout the park. We never cease to be amazed by these beautiful legacies from the earliest inhabitants, thinking about the wild world they must have lived in. Here in the Matobos’ landscapes, it is not difficult to imagine how the world must have looked.

We climbed up to World’s View to pay a visit to Mr. Cecil Rhodes at his final resting place. Whatever your thoughts about colonial history, the man certainly picked an excellent view. The landscape spread before us like a stone ocean, rippling to the horizon. It was Rhodes’s wishes that the people of nearby Bulawayo will visit and enjoy the Matobos on weekends (a railway even connected it prior to WWII), and we can understand why. The Matobos is indeed a special place filled with wonders both natural and cultural, and it is our hope that it will continue to inspire the people of Zimbabwe and visitors alike for a long time to come.

The storm had passed. As the last raindrops rolled from overhead branches, the East started to hint at a glowing dawn. Much like our experiences travelling through this country, we could sense optimism in the air. In the distance, a secretive Matobo leopard rasped. We lay in silence for a while before starting the morning pack-up rituals, feeling both awed and humbled.

After a month in Zimbabwe, we realise that we need much more time in this wonderful country. It is a place of contrasts: grandeur and humility, mystery and laughter, history and wild beauty all rolled into one. The people are warm, friendly and incredibly hospitable. The wilderness areas are diverse and spectacular. And the stories carved into its stones, painted on its cave walls, and whispered by its winds will stay with us forever. Because some adventures don’t just show you new places, they change the way you see the world.

Trip tips:

 

  1. We enjoyed staying at the following campsites:
  1. Take cash for the entrance fees at Great Zimbabwe – their card machine is not always online.
  1. We recommend the gravel road along the southern shore of Lake Mutirikwi – it is one of the most scenic drives in Zim!
  2. Beitbridge has a great new border post on the Zimbabwean side – fully automated and functional. The South African side requires a bit more patience and humour, but nothing to worry about.
From Harare to the Highlands

From Harare to the Highlands

After a great time in the Zambezi valley, we made our way down the ever-present North Road to Harare, stopping at The Farmer’s Wife for an unexpected and refreshing cappuccino, and at Saucy Sue’s for their compulsory steak rolls (yes, it’s that good).

Harare’s traffic can be daunting, not because of the amount but because of the drivers. Within a few days, we heard about no less than three hit-and-run accidents. Traffic lights seem to be only an opinion, and we longed for East Africa’s chaotic but efficient circles when we encountered the crazy four-or-more-way stops of Harare. Nevertheless, we arrived intact – albeit a bit white-knuckled and sweaty.

Harare has an odd reputation. The kind of place people tell you to “pass through quickly” on your way to “the good stuff.” But we decided to linger, and thank goodness for that. The city has a charm that sneaks up on you. Wide, Jacaranda-lined avenues, markets brimming with colour and banter, and cafés that serve cappuccinos good enough to make an Italian nod approvingly.

We spent a few delightful days with friends and locals Alison and Olly who made us feel right at home with their generous hospitality, showing us some highlights of Harare (without the stress of driving around!). We dined at the amazing Mara Mara restaurant (complete with live jazz band), and stocked up at the local Food Lover’s Market (likely the most amazing one we’ve ever been to).

We stopped for lunch at the amazing Miombo Mountain Lodge & Spa just outside of town. We loved their amazing gourmet burgers and local craft beer paired with a spectacular view from its hilltop location. It is set, as the name suggests, amidst pristine Miombo woodland just outside of Harare. Miombo are dominated by species in the Brachystegia genus such as the Msasa tree. The most striking feature is its spring “flush” of new leaves, which are an array of colours including amber, red, pink, and copper, before turning green. These colours come from anthocyanin, a pigment that also protects the leaves from sun or deter herbivores. So, it’s like the tree is putting on sunscreen before heading out into the summer sun.

Next up was the Eastgate Centre, a landmark building in the bustling central Harare which was of great interest to both of us. Designed by Mick Pearce and built in the 90’s, Eastgate is a shopping centre and office that famously bio-mimics a termite mound. Ventilated and cooled by entirely natural and passive means, it was probably the first building in the world to use natural cooling to this level of sophistication. Perhaps not the most common tourist destination, but an amazing experience for us!

After our few glorious days in Harare came to an end, we tracked southeast past the farming community of Marondera, climbing higher and higher towards the Eastern Highlands, a region that feels like someone took a slice of Scotland, drizzled it in African sunshine, and sprinkled it with mystery. The road wound past tobacco farms and granite outcrops, the scenery growing greener with every kilometre.

Our first stop was Nyanga, land of waterfalls, rolling hills, and suspiciously crisp air that made us wonder if we’d accidentally driven into another country. The highlands here sit over 2,000 metres above sea level, which explains both the misty mornings and our slightly wheezy attempts at hiking.

We explored the Nyanga National Park, driving along the high-altitude grasslands and admiring Mount Nyangani, Zimbabwe’s highest peak. The place feels like it was designed for storybooks – pine forests, trout streams, and mountains that disappear into cloud. It was also here that we finally got our first glimpse of the critically endangered blue swallow that breed in this area!

The Nyanga area is also filled with beautiful highland rivers and waterfalls, and we hiked to a few of them. We had lunch at The Packshed where we tried their famous chicken and homemade cider (both delicious), enjoying the view from where the world unfolded in endless greens and greys, valleys stitched with rivers, and the distant shimmer of Mozambique. Evenings in Nyanga are made for fireplaces, mugs of Milo, and the kind of conversation that can only happen when phones have no signal. Our cottage creaked comfortably in the wind, and the night sky glittered like a spilled bag of diamonds.

We coaxed Baloo further to the Vumba Mountains through rolling hills and tea plantations, past quaint villages and cows with opinions about right of way. Vumba is one of the gems of Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands, right on the border with Mozambique. Meaning ‘mist’ in Shona, it describes these misty forested mountains perfectly! The area is a botanical and biodiverse paradise and home to some of the rarest animals and butterflies in the region. And of course, the birding here is excellent – almost everything you see is a local rarity due to the high level of semi-endemism of this area.

We explored the beautiful Leopard Rock and enjoyed its historic feel, the forested views and its Samango monkeys. We then stayed a few nights at the charming Seldomseen Cottages to look for the rare birds the forests are known for. Amongst others, we found specials like the Swynnerton’s robin, red-faced crimsonwing, Livingstone’s turaco, range ground thrush, white-starred robin and more. It was a true privilege to be joined by local birding expert, Bulowezi, for a while in the forest. His knowledge and imitative bird calls are superb – indeed, it felt as if the rare forest birds queued up to be spotted by him.

The weather in these mountains changes faster than our moods after missing lunch. One minute sunshine, the next a rolling fog thick enough to make you question whether the rest of the world still exists. We took to calling it Vumba Time – where plans dissolve, and the only sensible response is another cup of coffee.

From Vumba we made our way made our way to a nearby and peculiarly delightful place: La Rochelle Country House. Once the private estate of Sir Stephen and Lady Virginia Courtauld, La Rochelle is now a boutique hotel set in sprawling gardens that look as if they were painted by Monet and were then carefully manicured by someone with infinite patience.

What made La Rochelle so fascinating to us is the combination of its rich and interesting history, fine art collection, tasteful interior decoration, amazing cuisine, and spectacular gardens. When the Courtalds set up the estate as their final home in the 50’s, they moved here from Europe after travelling the globe. They brought with them their fine collection of furniture and art, making it the finest private collection in sub-Saharan Africa, many of which is still on display in the house. The manor house is a curious mix of Art Deco elegance and eccentric charm – sweeping staircases, murals, and furniture that creaks with dignity.

And then there were the gardens. La Rochelle’s garden is a paradise for birders, botanists, or anyone who just enjoys pretending they’re in a period drama. The Courtalds collected orchids from around the globe, loved gardens and implemented both at a very grand scale at La Rochelle. The 20-ha private garden includes trees and plants from all over the world, as well as the greatest private orchid collection in Africa! We wandered through the orchid house, where blooms in impossible colours drooped lazily from their stems.

Our visit to La Rochelle not only provided a most welcome break from our usual ‘roughing-it’ style, it also filled our time there with wonder. From the beautiful orchids to the old window signed by famous visitors of the past, from the pet lemur’s garden monument to the beautiful valley along the hiking trails and the lamb chops grilled to perfection.

 

As night fell, the air filled with the scent of jasmine and damp earth. We sat on the veranda, reflecting on the last week’s adventures. If Harare is the heart of Zimbabwe, then surely the Eastern Highlands are its lungs – breathing life, calm, and wonder into everyone who visits. We had barely scratched the surface, and can’t wait to be back. After all, in Zimbabwe, every road – no matter how winding – promises another adventure.

Note of thanks: A huge thank you and shoutout to Olly & Alison for hosting us in Harare, the Leareds for hosting us at Miombo Mountain Lodge & Spa, and Reggie & Fiona for hosting us at La Rochelle!

 

Trip Tips:

 

  1. Most main roads in Zimbabwe are tolled at $2-4 per toll gate. Have dollars ready in cash!

 

  1. Stop for a steak roll at Saucy Sue’s and a coffee at The Farmer’s Wife when driving the busy Great North Road north of Harare – you will not regret it.

 

  1. Harare is a good place to fix overlanding vehicles, stock up and spoil yourself. Try Miombo Mountain Lodge & Spa for a special stay with a fantastic view, or just a memorable lunch! (https://miombomountainlodge.com/)

 

  1. The Eastern Highlands is a good place to consider a break from camping. We loved staying at Seldomseen Cottages. (https://www.seldomseen.co.zw/)

 

  1. Birding is excellent all over the Eastern Highlands. Hotspots we particularly enjoyed are the grasslands and waterfalls of Nyanga National Park, the Miombo-clad hills around Juliasdale, and the forests of the Vumba Mountains.

 

  1. La Rochelle Country House makes a trip to the Mutare area more than worth it. The rich history, beautiful gardens and orchids, comfortable rooms and delicious dining all combine to make for a truly memorable detour! (https://larochellecountryhouse.net/)

Into the Land of Giants

Into the Land of Giants

As we slowly headed downhill, the landscape opened out. With the escarpment wall rising behind us, we dropped into the vastness of the Zambezi Valley. The road was officially the Great North Road, but inside the car it felt like the Great North Obstacle Course. After dodging potholes galore, we reached Chirundu – right on the border with Zambia. Heading to the Zambezi river, we found lion spoor within a few hundred meters from the main road. It is easy to believe the rumours of truck drivers getting nabbed by the local lion population while sleeping underneath their trucks.

We camped for a few days at Tiger Safaris’ beautiful riverside campsite. Situated on the banks of the Zambezi, we enjoyed sprawling views of the river, chats with visiting anglers and big game hunters alike, and daily (very) close-up visits by the local elephants and hippos.

Of course, we also ventured out in search of tigerfish. The high water level and recent ecologically disastrous copper mine spillages into the nearby Kafue River confluence put a damper on fishing results. However, the stretch of lower Zambezi we fished made up for it. Teeming with riverside wildlife, rich birdlife and characterised by lush landscapes of large Natal Mahogony, Ana and Apple leaf trees, this is the wildest stretch of Zambezi we had ever fished.

From Chirundu we back-tracked towards Mana Pools. From the carved valley of the Zambezi to the open plains, river channels, sandbanks, pools, and riparian forest of Mana. The name itself means four in Shona, referring to the four large permanent pools carved out by the river’s meanderings. I pondered whether it might also refer to the four (!) separate entrances you need to stop and show your permits as you enter Mana.

We arrived at the tail end of the dry season. Shadows stretched long and the nut-brown landscape had a hush about it. Yet life was everywhere. We camped at Nyamepi where the Zambezi was flowing broad and slow, hippos were grunting, crocodiles were lurking, and overhead the fruiting Ana trees dropped their seedpods. These seeds attract wildlife of all sorts (particularly ellies) from the vast wildernesses around the park.

We enjoyed exploring the park’s road network and marvelled at the uniquely famous landscapes along the river: misty mornings, massive trees, and elephants in the foreground, middleground and background. Nightly campsite visitors kept us on our toes, with hyena, hippos and elephants all testing the limits of our comfort zone.

Of course, Mana Pools is also famous for its tolerance towards visitors walking freely in the park, guided or unguided (with permits). Although this gives one a sense of freedom, we must admit that we had a few bad encounters indicating that some people (self-drivers and guides alike) are simply taking advantage of this rare privilege and pushing boundaries beyond what is safe and ethical. In a world driven by selfies, tips and likes, it sadly seemed to us as if respectful encounters with big game are all too often the lowest priority at Mana Pools.

Despite this, Mana remains a unique and utterly beautiful paradise and we thoroughly enjoyed the magnificent riverine trees, croc-filled pools, pod-eating elephants, bold predators, rich birdlife, and Zambezi sunrises. It is a stripped-down, unpretentious wilderness. The flood-plain, river terrace, forest of mahogany, fig, and ebony trees all create clear sight-lines, no dense bush to hide predators, and an ever-present sense that you’re nowhere near civilisation.

So, if you ever find yourself driving the Great North Road, dodging potholes and wondering why you chose this route, just drive on. Because when you reach the Zambezi, when you feel that low-valley hush, when you camp by the river and hear the hippo grunt and the elephant trumpet, you will know. This is what wild means. This is what a trip to the protected reserves of Zimbabwe means. And this, right here, is why we will always return to wild spaces like the Zambezi and Mana Pools.

Trip tips:

    1. The road up to Marongora is fine, but from there to Chirundu is horribly potholed – take it slow!
    1. The Chirundu area is great for tiger fishing (and game viewing), and we recommend camping at Tiger Safaris (https://www.tigersafaris.co.zw/). The best time of year on this stretch is October – December before the rains start.
    1. Mana Pools is a popular destination so booking well in advance is a good idea, especially if you want to go to Chitake Springs in dry season. Book (with a lot of patience) via ahlabiso@zimparks.org.zw.
    1. The road from Mana’s Chimutsi Gate to Nyamepi can be very corrugated, but we found it recently graded and not too bad.
    1. The private campsites at Mana Pools are spectacular – we recommend BBC, Ndungu, Nkupe and Mucheni.
    2. Despite what many may tell you, it is not allowed to visit Chitake Springs if you don’t have a booking there for the night. We suggest respecting the rules as crowds there diminish the experience for all.
Of ferries, elephants, and potholes

Of ferries, elephants, and potholes

From the moment we bumped and lurched our way along the lunar surface of potholes from Hwange towards the shores of Lake Kariba, the sweet promise of adventure was in the air. The road insisted we suffer a bit—and suffer we did, willingly—because according to the unwritten safari rule it’s often the painful approach that leads to the amazing reveal. And when we finally arrived, Lake Kariba more than delivered.

Set in a small conservancy alongside a quiet private bay on the shores of Lake Kariba, Maabwe Bay seems to have it all. A relaxed atmosphere, beautiful views over the bay, a complementary campsite fish eagle, and excellent facilities. The silence was a kind of luxury: no throngs of tourists, just the soothing lap of water, the distant croak of hippos and the occasional trumpet of an elephant arriving at the water’s edge.

Owner Margot is hospitality personified and offered us fresh fillets of locally-caught Niloticus Tilapia which was, quiet simply, the best freshwater fish we’d ever tasted. Margot and her late husband did an amazing job of setting up this beautiful camp, and she runs a tight ship amidst the plethora of challenges in these parts.

After a few days of ‘seaside’ bliss, we trundled to nearby Mlibizi to catch the weekly ferry across the length of Lake Kariba. Permission to board, Captain! Operated by Kariba Ferries, the stately vessel MV Sealion has become somewhat of an institution. Having operated on and off since 1973, it is a purpose-built ferry to link overlanders and their vehicles from one shore of Lake Kariba to the other.

This is no ordinary ferry hop – it is a good 22 hours, or with head winds, more like 26. Boarding and parking (read cramming) Baloo into the hold with all the other vehicles cost us a few grey hairs, but we emerged (via our back window) unscathed. The trip was great – beautiful views of the surrounding landscapes, meeting new friends onboard, shoreline game watching, and meals not unlike a Sunday roast at your mother’s home!

All in all, the ferry is not cheap (as with most things in Zim), but offers a good alternative to the rough road connecting Vic Falls to Mana Pools and provided us with a great adventure across the full length of the largest man-made reservoir in the world by volume.

Arriving in Kariba town, we found it a bit like a seaside village with elephants. We stocked up at the quaint Ellie Deli, checked out the massive dam wall and hydroelectric scheme and drove up to Kariba Heights. We visited the Santa Barbara church, built in honour of the Italian and African workers who died during the dam’s construction of the memorial. We also visited the small hospital where Deo’s dad worked in the 1970s when their new x-ray machine was the only one in the whole region.

Next to it is a memorial to Operation Noah, the massive wildlife rescue effort that took place in the 1960s to save animals from the rising waters of the newly formed lake. The weight of the place sank in: this lake is playful, shimmering, full of life, but also a product of huge change. The tribes living in the valley were relocated, islands emerged, forests flooded, and animals were rescued.

We stayed in Warthogs Camp catching up on work, waking up to elephants moving through camp, and fighting off millions of mozzies (yes, they can and will fit through a 1cm hole in the tent). The grass between the mopanis were lush and green, and we half-expected a warthog to wander in and ask “is this the place for the buffet?”. But instead we just sat, cold Zambezi in hand (camping rule 47: always sample the local beer even if it is not that good) and watched the horizon colour-shift as the evening deepened.

We totally understand why Kariba is many Zimbabweans’ equivalent of a favourite seaside breakaway town. The ever-changing border between land and water, the islands scattered like forgotten stepping-stones, the mountains beyond – all blended into a memory we will not forget. If you’re after a safari with a twist, a place where the endless water meets wild Africa and adventure is the daily norm, go to Lake Kariba.

Trip tips:

  1. The ferry across Lake Kariba is an interesting and unique adventure. Book it through their website (https://www.karibaferries.com/) but be mindful of getting your vehicle height correct to avoid them wanting to take your rooftop tent off on arrival! It travels between Mlibizi and Kariba town weekly.
  1. We enjoyed the following campsites along the lake’s edge:
  1. There is reliable fuel in Kariba, but not in Mlibizi. In Kariba, spoil yourself with quality foods at The Ellie Deli.
  2. If you have enough time and it is dry season, consider travelling by road from Mlibizi to Kariba. Be warned that this road is very bad and seasonal, so plan it over a few days. This route will take you to fantastic gems like Chizarira National Park and Matusadona National Park, both absolutely worthwhile visiting!

Hwonderful Hwange

Hwonderful Hwange

Having only visited Victoria Falls before, we couldn’t wait to explore Zimbabwe more thoroughly and finally got a chance to do so this year. An untimely bout of flu delayed us for a few days in Pandamatenga. But, high on Corenza and Andolex, we finally rolled into Zimbabwe via the sleepy border post (literally, the customs officer was snoozing in his hut), leaving behind the tourist bustle and slipping into a quieter, wild zone.

Our first target was Hwange National Park. The road into Hwange threaded through the Matetsi Safari Area, a former hunting concession that gave an early hint of what was to come. Mid-afternoon, without any fanfare or warning, a leopard bolted across the public road in front of us. One moment we were chatting about pizza (yes—we had sampled the “Sugarbird” at Panda Lodge), the next we froze as the spotted cat melted into the bushes. That instantaneous shift from “holiday chatter” to “we’re in wild country now” was thrilling.

Our first campsite was at Mandavu Dam, and it felt like we’d discovered a secret: we had the site to ourselves. A friendly attendant greeted us with a wheelbarrow full of mopane wood—perfect for the campfire. As the sun dipped and shadows longed into the bush, the ambient soundtrack launched: hippos grunting in the water and elephants lumbering nearby. The fire crackled and our shoes were dusty. It was bush-camping at its purest.

In the Sinamatella area, dry and recently burnt, the burnt patches of bush added a dramatic stroke to the landscape. The blackened earth contrasted vividly with green shoots, grazing animals, and the ash-grey trunks of trees. There, at almost every waterhole we visited, elephants gathered. Sometimes 20, sometimes 50 or more. Indeed, Hwange has one of the highest ellie populations in Africa.

Dry, open mopane woodland, dusty roads, grassy glades dotted with camelthorn trees—Hwange’s terrain is deceptively simple but layered with mood. According to conservation sources, Hwange spans around 14,651 km². What that means is that there is plenty of space for animals to roam, and for you to feel small in a grand natural theatre. There is also generally less tourists than in more popular parks, making it our favourite type of reserve.

The dry season (which we were in) has its own magic—water is scarce, so when a dam or pan becomes active, it’s like a wildlife magnet. We spotted roan and sable antelope that felt like rare cameo appearances, roaming in the grasslands with a casual elegance. Knowing that Hwange is one of the few places in southern Africa where sable and roan are still seen regularly made the moments feel even more special.

Some parts of Hwange aren’t groomed for luxury smoothness. The road from Robin’s to Main Camp was ex-tarred, bumpy, and made Baloo bounce like popcorn. But those bumps came with rewards: game-rich areas around Ngweshla, glades dotted with giant camelthorn trees, and the feeling of being deeper in the wild. You grit your teeth over potholes and then you gasp at the scene—a sable antelope framed by the rising sun, elephants silhouetted in a misty waterhole.

Before moving on we camped at Gwango Heritage Resort just outside Main Camp. A smarter site, cold beer in hand, sunrise picture-perfect with Ground Hornbills booming in the morning air. It felt like the bush cleared its throat, stretched, and invited us to stay longer.

As we packed up and left towards Kariba, we realised we were leaving more than a park, we were leaving a mood, a wild chapter. In the vehicle, I turned to Simoné and said, “We’ll be back.” Because you don’t just visit Hwonderful Hwange. You wander inside it, you get gently wild-smitten, and you promise yourself one more night of mopane wood fires under the African sky.

Trip tips:

 

  • For a quick and quiet entry to Zimbabwe from Botswana, use the Pandamatenga border post.
  • Cash is king in Zimbabwe! US Dollars can be withdrawn from ATMs in major cities, but we suggest taking at least a few fuel tanks’ worth before you go!
  • Fuel is readily available in Zimbabwe although expensive. Most Total and Puma stations accept VISA cards, but don’t bargain on it too much.
  • We did not book for Hwange, but it can be done if you have a bit of patience and a sense of humour via reservations@zimparks.org.zw.
  • Two great campsites just outside the park’s borders that we can recommend are Gwango (https://gwango.com/) and The Siding (https://www.thebayetecollection.com/the-siding/).
  • The picnic site and platform campsites in Hwange are expensive but unique. They are worth it if you are keen for an amazing wilderness experience. Our favourites are Ngweshla, Makwa, Deteema, and Mandavu Dam.